Malaysia vs. Singapore

(A Malaysian resting near the stinky water around 10 o'clock in the morning in Malacca. Life is generally much slower and more relaxed here than in Singapore. Of course, the people know that their productivity is way below Singapore's...but I see here that it does not necessarily lower their life quality. To put it in other words: Being a Singaporean buzy-bee with a packed week schedule does not necessarily make you happier)

MALAYSIA-TRULY-ASIA

I spent a few days this week with my friend Vikram in the Southwest-Malaysian City of Malacca, a beautiful outpost of Malay culture which is just 3 car-hours away from Singapore, located on the Strait of Malacca (ca. 80000 inhabitants). While he was on Business trip, I went to explore this historic city, which was first taken by the Portuguese in 1511 and then by the Dutch in 1641, before it became part of the then almighty British Empire in the early 19th century.

These diverse influences can be seen all over the city. The outlook of many houses is very different from what I’ve spotted in this country so far (alas, I HAVE NOT seen too much of 'Malaysia-Truly-Asia' yet on the other hand ;-)). The big role Chinese culture plays in this country is still a surprise to me, as it contradicts the strange and wrong imagination I had before of a mainly homogenous society. A considerable part of the people is of Chinese heritage, which can be seen by the numerous Chinese temples around the city and traditional Chinese characters that mark and ‘guard’ entrances and windows of many houses. And of course, the available food is a nice blend of all mentioned heritages…I also had my first ‘Asam Laksa’ in Malacca, which comes without (!) coconut milk..A more sour (='asam') sensation than expected but still yummy!

YOU LIKE SINGAPORE?

I found it very easy to connect with the locals. It helps a lot to discover a city like that alone and some Mandarin breaks the ice with the people right away (there is no ice anyway, not only because of the tropical temperatures..). I soon realized that my mentioning of my workplace sparked something in them and let them talk quite freely. Apparently, most Malaysians do have their opinion about Singaporeans and don’t hide that there is indeed some love/hate relationship (with a slight emphasis on the latter). It boils down to an almost typical animosity between the two states whose history is so strongly intertwined. I have been to a local museum which portrayed Malaysia’s long way into independence. Singapore’s secession from the newly founded Malaysia in 1965 was justified by the ‘avoidance of conflict due to deep-seated political differences and to safeguard peace’.

Was there almost a war looming then between the two states?!

(A feature that I like in both Singapore and Malaysia..the simple measure of showing the remaining seconds for traffic light phases smoothes traffic and your own nerves so much. PLEASE, Germany! Adopt this very simple thing. It increases safety so much and helps to keep cool)

MALAYSIANS ABOUT SNOTTY SINGAPOREANS

So what do Malaysians think about Singaporeans? I had a long talk to one intelligent and witty old Lady in a craft shop at famous Jonkor street. I will only reproduce what she said, which does not necessarily reflect my own opinion..I just like to explore this little animosity in more detail. There may be a lot of biased generalization but this is exactly what I heard on so many occasions that I can almost take it as public opinion. Well, I myself know examples to prove exceptions to the rules ;-) Don’t take it too serious. However, I would be happy to get comments..

Due to the mere economic facts (Singapore’s GDP per capita is about 3 times as high as Malaysia’s) the city outperforms MY by almost any measure. And according to the Lady many Singaporeans apparently make no attempt to hide their superior position by looking down on other, poorer nations in Asia..and Malaysia is of course on of them. A stuck-up, snooty-nosed attitude is what most Malaysians mention when it comes to the way Singaporeans usually talk to them.

Well, I myself cannot confirm this, which of course may be due to my nature as an Ang Mo (Caucasian white), which (to be very honest) puts me on the highest step of the ladder in this country, whatever I do and say. There is simply no way for me to experience the mentioned impressions first-hand.

(colorful Rikshaws can be seen on many places around Malacca. It is usually a sweaty old man who charges 10 Ringit [2€] for a ride...which is actually quite expensive. They can be seen in Singapore as well, but are more a relict than part of daily tourist life as here in Malacca. However, both country versions are strinkingly colorful, sometimes come with loudspeakers that scream Malaysian music out in the streets and a whole range of rainbow-colored LEDs glow on them in wild disco-rhythms at night..some vehicles do look like a screeching, marvelously slow Christmas tree and let you wonder what kind of integrated power station provides for all these gimmicks)

THERE MUST BE ORDER IN SINGAPORE

On the other hand, Singaporeans are perceived as very efficient in most things they do and are often taken as good examples to show how things should be run. They are organized, follow rules to an extent that even let my German eyebrows rise (you know..our national saying is ‘Ordnung muss sein’ = ‘Order must be’). Since they have success, they look for ways to show off with what they have. That starts with small things..like the fact that a Singaporean usually has to be superbly dressed for the holy act of shopping (which is not the case in Malaysia). It goes further in the way that many Singaporeans buy uselessly big luxury cars, which can only function as status symbols in this small, speed-limited city. It is almost tragic that the ever present buzy-bees spend all this huge amount of time in office just to being able to hand over their hard-earned money and receive goods which further support representation in public.

THE 5 Cs

Which brings me to the well-known concept of the 5 C’s, which actually have been taught to me by Singaporeans only very recently…five things that represent the very desirable lifestyle in this tropical city:

Cash
Condominium
Credit Card
Country Club
Car
(with exchangeable order)

Material wealth, self-sacrifice for the job, almost no time for leisure…all apparently chapters in the same book. Is there a way out? Join a French company to enjoy ‘Savoir Vivre’? Leave Singapore for Australia? Or is it just a needed change of the very own state of mind to decouple yourself from public opinion? Is this even what the Singaporeans want?

What I have to add as a last point here is that many Singaporeans seem to understand that very well and can even point to the above facts. They often crave for a change in corporate life.. However, public expectation seems to put many in one big peer pressure boat. I am not even sure if a change is really desirable here..is that one facet of culture I failed to notice or interpret?

(A side street in Malacca's old town..this city and especially the region around famous Jonkor Street is so diverse. Although I was told that Kuala Lumpur also has traditional quarters, this is the first time that I somehow had the impression to 'feel' a more real version of Malaysia, leaving aside Kuala Lumpurs hard-bitteness for example. The narrowness of the streets, the abundance of shops that sell wonderful local craft (not only the usual kitsch) and food, as well as numerous small bars are there to be discovered..)

MALAYSIAN ABOUT MALAYSIAN

Malaysian Shop Owner: ‘So where are you from?’
Me: ‘I’m from Germany!’
Malaysian Shop Owner: ‘So you must be Hitler grand grand grand son, haha!’
Me: ‘…Ha..Ha…...’

(quoted from the old lady)
Malaysians might live a slower life, are according to her self-proclaimed less efficient but they see themselves as more humble and friendly than their Singaporean neighbors (supported by a friends testimony that she rather flies with Malaysian than Singapore Airlines). They admit with a bright smile to be 'extremely' lazy, as if this was a pillar in their life that can never be moved and has therefore to be taken into account when we talk about future development. Jealousy is there of Singapore's success and Malaysia would love to surpass their little neighbor better yesterday than tomorrow. But on the other hand they see the Singaporean orderly lifestyle and know to somehow that they can only catch up to them if they virtually become them.

I really try not to bash on anyone here, and this might have been a harsh post that polarizes. Having the nice friends/colleagues and acquaintances in mind that I know here I can hardly imagine that the above mentioned allegations are more rule than exception. Nevertheless, I felt that I had to write about the uniformity of Malaysian opinion about Singapore and the honest self-reflection I got from the old Lady (however little objective it might be).

I enjoy this country and people very much, that's why I extended my stay. However, I have the subtle impression that because of my nature as a Caucasian there will always be facets of culture that I simply cannot experience myself.

Do I only see the bright side of Singapore?

Maik

(Then what the heck is it?! Has Veggie been the name of the cow that is behind this treacherous act? Hiding this not sooo important information in fine print can be dangerous..Dear Malaysian McD Manager, if you EVER choose to go to the United States, the wonderful customers there will probably read this, eat kilograms of the yummy Veggie Burger and then sue you to the bones because of mental cruelty. You've been warned!)